Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always characterized its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
